History
Gondar and the castles of Fasil Ghebbi
Ethiopia’s royal capital for two centuries: a walled enclosure of stone castles, a bath that fills once a year, and a church ceiling covered in angels. How to spend a day in Gondar.
The journal
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History
Travel guides
Trekking the Simien Mountains: routes, scouts and what to expect
Escarpments that drop a kilometre into the lowlands, gelada monkeys by the hundred, nights at 3,600 metres. How a Simien trek works, which route to choose and how to prepare.
History
Lalibela: a complete guide to the rock-hewn churches
Eleven churches cut down into the living rock eight centuries ago, still used every day. How the site is laid out, how many days to give it, and how to see it with a priest rather than a crowd.
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